Messages

I have two of those radiators, and I am baffled as to how they can be (apparently) so well made and be so inexpensive. Waiting to hear your performance review.

I had a LC version on my 421 and you are right to say that they are really cheap and quite well made. My bike still ran really hot in traffic in summer with the fan running constantly, so I ended up replacing it with a curved R6 rad which made a huge difference.

Ive seen a few guys making them using a pressure washer and they come out crap. The hand pump this guy uses seems to work really, and he makes it look so easy that I almost want to try it myself

On my 73 RD350 with an RZ / Banshee 421 stuffed in theres i have billit intakes to lift the TM34 carbs up to clear the cases. this leaves even less spavce for the filters, so I went with a twin filter sock that just fits over the carbs tight enough to stay in place

Previous owner machined the case to fit a bearing on the end of the shift drum instead of machining down the shift drum and using a bearing that fits the case. Now the neutral switch hole is too big for the oring to seal. Even with an oversized oring, gasket and anaerobic sealer it still leaks a bit.
Cases were also machined for a bearing on the shift shaft as well.

Glad you got it all together and sorted. They are soo much fun to ride and piss off teslas with the crazy acceleration. (There are a lot of teslas here driven by complete asshats)

I have the vessel set w the built-in impact handle.  works great

I have a vessel set from Economy Cycle, and after years of struggling with stripped heads and regular philllips they are a game changer.

Billet Banshee intakes move the carbs back and up. Just make sure you buy from a reputable seller with genuine mikuni intake flanges and not chinese knockoff stuff. Thats not a place you want a leak.

I have a RZ motor in my 73 350 with TM34 carbs and I use a Ramair sock filter due to serious lack of space. I just stretch the openings over the carbs and it has stayed in place so far.

I am still having problems. Mark has been a huge help, thank you Mark. This issue of burbling/ low power at 6000-6500 started after installing the zeel at the gap. I kept thinking it had to have something to do with that. I decided to take a step back and start at the beginning and try and see what was really up.
seems to me a pressure test was a good start before messing around with jets or electronics. I borrowed the pressure test kit from John at EC. Hooked it up today and could not even get 1lb to hold. I had to actually blow in the hose to get enough air through it to see what was going on. Easy to see on the photo. These are new boots, I put them on before the meet. I had a set rip 3 years ago and wanted to be sure that did not happen again.
This may not be THE problem but it sure is one. I am going to remove the cylinders as well to be sure I did not do anything to the pistons or rings while I am waiting on the new manifolds.

If thats a boost bottle behind your thumb, get rid of it. All they are good for is breaking intakes

I have some regular JIS screwdrivers, and I believe they are numbered 1,2,and 3.

There are times you will need all 3.

Post a link if you find JIS impact bits, I don't have any - but could use some.

I bought a set with 3" long shanks off Amazon and have used them a few times and they have worked great.

Man that is great.  Sorry to derail this post.  Has anybody transplanted an RZ motor in a RD frame?  I know there are LC top end conversions like Marcs amazing bike but I have never seen an actual RZ motor transplants.  I saw at a bike show a banshee conversion in a sport bike frame but that's it.  I assume alot of fab work.  excited to see how your bike turns out well done!

I have a 421 RZ motor in my 73 RD. The rear engine mount was broken on the cases, so I modified the cases to fit the rd mount. The top front mount is the same, just need enlarging and I modified the bottom  torsion bars to fit the side stand mounts underneath.
if I pull the 421 motor I can fit the AC motor straight back in there.

Did you remove the entire clutch basket during the work?

I have a Vape stator / flywheel and zeel box on my RZ based motor and it works perfect. I dont have powervalves, so the wire is just not connected. (The zeel without powervalve option was not available when purchased)
It has a 4mm crank, so I needed to get a dial gauge with a lot of throw to set the max advance when setting it up.
Dont forget to buy the usb cable or handheld programmer as well. I bought it from Fast from the Past and he was really helpful and even sent me some timing curves.

Duplicolor Ceramic coat caliper paint.



Couldn't resist a mock-up...

Was there a reason you went with Athena, instead if CPI or Driveline cylinders?

You can leave the top end on, flip the motor over and only remove the bottom case to get to the trans

To get an idea of the cost, there is a spoked disk hub from a Euro spec rd400 for sale on facebook in Michigan for $600.
You will still need spokes, caliper, hanger, spacers and modified parts to fit the 350 swinger