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Thanks Mike, that makes sense. I'll keep trying things others mentioned.

Pic 1 & 2: Inside and outside of the reeds.
Pic 3 & 4: Clutch cover opened and eek of the oil seal behind primary gear.
Pic 5 & 6: Oil seal from either sides.

Can someone school me on how this seal is supposed to be, please?

So I got multiple threads at this time to chase but here's what I have been upto:

1. Took out reeds, they seem fine. No residue or any funky stuff.
2. My compression test shows 84 and 85 on left and right cylinders.
3. Took out clutch cover and I see the oil seal behind the primary gear put in reverse position. Shouldn't the numbers face outward?

Attaching pictures for reference.

Thanks for your reply.

I haven't checked myself but I will once I get it home this weekend. You stated - " It's likely you have more problems", is there anything else I should check on?

Much appreciate your time and I'm happy to learn.

So the shop said even with piston rings or the complete top-end rebuild they aren't confident that the issue can be fixed until the motor is split and they just don't have the expertise to do it. They don't have any recommendations either :disappointed:

Issue is low compression - 42 as opposed to 150 as they tested, they're amazed that we even have combustion with that low of a number. Also a bubble of smoke although starts in few kicks each time.

I'm in Colorado and need an experience builder and punctual (preferably in-state) but willing to work out of state. Does anyone have a recommendation of good ones? I see https://herrjugsracing.com/ although shipping can get expensive.

Thank you guys! I'll keep it posted on how it goes.

You're correct, too many choices. Thanks for your response.

The current ones are at 64.25 mm if my memory serves me so I could go to the next size up - 64.50 mm. To answer your questions:
1. I'd want to get a reliable motor.
2. $800 including labor, maybe I'm stretching here.
3. Im okay with regular DIY type maintenance.

What piston kit do I go for wiseco,  pro-x, etc ?

Howdy folks,
After multiple failed attempts to get a good jetting on my RZ, I hesitantly took it to a shop who found low compression and advised a top-end rebuild.

I see numerous choices out there but wanted to get opinion from y'all. Any advice is highly appreciated.

I'm not after every hp gain but would be doing spririted riding in mountains and certainly would want it to sound nice.

Thanks!

I have no interest in any social site accounts at all. It's enough to have a few useful and interesting hobbies with sites like this 1 to keep me busy. Having started my career in electronics in 1984 I've been part of the development of many current technologies we all take for granted as necessities, but some are just downright dangerous with many hidden features and nothing positive for a better society -like FB. I got along just fine before socials and am a Luddite at heart  Motorcycles give me more satisfaction than I could ever imagine by living my life through a mobile device. 

Exactly. I'm the same. I don't have an account and never creating one.

Sorry to hear about your crash but looks as good as it can get. Nice work!

FYI - Michel at https://alexmichrg500.wixsite.com/rgshop is my go-to guy for any of those hard to get parts.

Dang it .... what a machine! I can only see how high it goes given current prices. But yea TZ750 is THE bike I would want on day.

Thanks for sharing. I'll meanwhile keep dreaming of it.

  Nicely done!

Also see attached that may help better understand.

It's still WIP for me but I think I dialed it pretty close to where I wanted it, mind you I'm at 7,000 feet above sea level so your mileage may vary. Below are the specs.

Mods:-
Stock motor with 64.25mm
Spec II F1 Expansion Chambers
UNI POD Filters

Carburetors:-
Mikuni VM26SS  (Standard per manual is 230/20)
Main Jet - #210
Pilot Jet - #20
Spark plugs - BR8ES
Toomey needle jet - 4th position from top.
Air screw - I started from 1/2 turn and kept incrementing all the way to 2 1/2 but 1 full turn seems to be making it breath smoothly and have no bogging or flat spots. 

For a good video, see:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aJ09YPZNQcU

Rookie tip: IF you have standard RZ carb (push/pull), prior to removing carbs, angle it forward and take out the bottom wire (pull) first and then the top one (push) next. These are really a pain but after a handful of tries I'm getting tab bit better with these. They aren't bad for what they are but needs some fiddling IMHO.

Also, if you have stock air box that's where I'd recommend you start from. And you seem to be be in MY, so I'm assuming #420 might be the one for you although as we're all aware it varies on your bike setup. 

Keep me posted so will I.

Goodluck!

Thanks a lot, that's quite a relief. It starts so I'm guessing all is good.