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I also had a broken kickstand bracket on my RD350. I ended up making a reinforcement bracket, that tied to both the bottom AND top plate of the frame crossmember. It is now rock solid 😀

This is possibly way too political, but as a Norwegian, i.e European, it is mindblowing to watch current events unfold......

Looks really nice! I have a few questions though:

How is the length compared to a stock RD350 or RD400 swing arm?
How does the weight compare to a stock swing arm?
Is the RD350/400 wheel axle long enough?
Is the shock mount in the same position as stock, measured from swing arm pivot?

Did you kick it with fully open throttle when getting the 90 psi reading? And is there a long hose on your compression gauge?

(When you consider the effective volume above the exhaust port is maybe 125 cc, and combustion chamber volume is maybe 22 cc on an RD400, the added volume from a hose will reduce pressure reading significantly)

That will be a pretty extreme street ride 😀

I mean they look good. but performance is a whole other ball of wax. I really hope they work out.

If judging by the length in the pics, they do not seem to be built for a high rpm peak. Which may be a good or a bad thing, depending on expectations.

AFAIK, the only 34 mm Yamaha forks with the calipers behind the sliders are 1976 XS650C and pre-Daytona RD400.
The XS sliders are a bit longer than RD sliders, and also have larger OD.
The RD400 sliders are also different from the 350 ones,in the top end/ seal area. So best replaced as a pair.

Here is some inspiration if you are still going the OEM route.  100 3/8" holes per rotor and they were also thinned down to around 5mm.

Thanks for sharing, looks great. I've now made up mind to go the blue dot way....the challenge is obtaining the specs for the flange and adaptor for the RD350B (1975 model) is a challenge as mine has the OEM fork legs with the caliper in the front unlike the RD400.....

You can swap the fork legs left to right, if you don't use the oem speedo.

thanks. I forgot how easy a piston port is to jet for pipes w no other mods, and of course fucked it up last night    went up too much on the main  and it just wasn't good. so basically I need to get maybe 1 larger than stock and try it. they do sound good. also, w some fanagaling I can retain the center stand. I did have to sing the pipe in at the sidestand bolt,  and will have to relocate the rear pegs. but, I like em.

Lovely looking pipes. And bike!
I wish JL would make RD pipes more in that style. Their "classics" do not look half as good IMHO. That low, straight 70's style appeal more to me than more kicked up designs.

All that being said half a pound is half a pound.

On a lightweight bike like an RD, less unsprung weight is REALLY noticeable on bumpy roads. A more extreme example is when I converted my XS650D from the oem twin 267 mm discs (more like boat anchors, really) to a single 320 mm ISR disc, and a Brembo 4 pot caliper. Combined with an alloy front fender, Ti fasteners and alloy bearing spacers, I lost around 5 kg/ 12 lbs of unsprung weight. From around 16 kg to around 11 kg IIRC. The difference was noticeable before you got into second gear.....

Hi All: Is there any alternate gear shift lever that is a direct fit on the RD350 gear shift shaft? Has anyone tried the YZ125 shift lever? The shaft size seems to be same as of the RD based on the oil seal dis.

Long story short, the belly of my exhaust pipes are huge and not tucked under the frame. The OEM lever tends to hit the side of the belly interfering with down shifting....

Most all Yamaha levers, including XT250&500, XS650 will fit. And some Honda as well

Swapping the stock cast iron caliper for the alloy repop caliper that EC sells will cut a pound/ 500 grams or more as well. Swapping disc and caliper fasteners for TI saves a little bit more.
Also, inner tubes and tyres vary quite a bit in weight.

My personal take on ideal footpeg location is to have them below the rider's CofG. If you sit in riding position on a bike while it is on a center stand or a paddock stand, and can lift your butt off the seat without having to neither "push" nor "pull" on the handlebar, then you have a good,  balanced riding position. This will be pretty similar to most dirt or adv bikes footpeg position.

In stock form, the older RDs, as well as my XS650 have the pegs way too far forward. Kawasaki triples are much better in this respekt.

Wouldn't a 100/90 be just too wide for a stock RD350 rim?
Can't say I am 100% sure, but aren't the stock rims something like 1.60" and 1.85" wide?
Using wider tyres on narrow rims won't give the correct tyre shape.

Get a vape ignition and you wont be fouling plugs again

Exactly. And no more alternator brushes, breaker points, condensers to replace and adjust constantly. Consistent timing, stronger spark, easy starting and 150 watts for lights. So a 55/60 W H4 or even a 80/100 W H4 is no longer too much.
And a significant weight saving as well. I don't remember exactly, but I believe 1.5 kg/ 3 lbs lighter when stock stator/rotor/coils/ regulator/rectifier are replaced with the Vape setup. If you then replace the stock 5.5 Ah lead-acid battery with a lighter alarm battery, or a LiPoFe battery (The one I use weighs only 450 g/ 1 lb), you get rid of another 1.5 kg/ 3 lbs at least. This kind of weight saving actually makes a little difference on a small and light bike. Especially if you already have replaced other heavy-ish parts with lighter alternatives (Fenders, footpegs/ foot controls, handlebar, instruments, mirrors, exhaust system, headlight, etc)