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Torque specs on shaft nuts question

Started by suey1958, December 02, 2019, 01:46:57 PM

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suey1958

Should the shaft nuts on the clutch basket and crank primary gear be torqued or just tightened well ?
I dont see torque specs in my manual.

Greaser Greg

The Clymer, which is for multiple models, manual says 29-32 ft/lbs. That being said, it also has head fasteners listed at 14.5, which is less than the 18-20 I've seen posted here'bouts.  I seem to remember doing 38 on the big nuts, but I'm a newb. Thorough, but still a newb on these bikes. :dawg:
Every day above ground is a good one.
'71 R5B "Rusty"  '71 R5B "Decaf"   '99 KZ 250
'97 XL1200S "The Vibrator"   '08 XL1200N  "Greenie" (totalled)
'78 CB750F "The Skunk"   '74 CB550 "Blackie"    '78 Honda Hobbit

Striker1423

Yes. The torque specs are listed on the air cooled rd forum somewhere. Can't seem to find it. But it was around 50ft lbs. Easy way to torque these is to stuff a folded cotton rag in between the clutch and primary gears to jam them together. Rotate clutch olposirlte direction to release.

Greaser Greg

I used a rag and it got shredded, leaving particles in gears.  I found putting the bike in gear and tying the tire to the swingarm worked also.  Have heard a copper coin will also work.
Every day above ground is a good one.
'71 R5B "Rusty"  '71 R5B "Decaf"   '99 KZ 250
'97 XL1200S "The Vibrator"   '08 XL1200N  "Greenie" (totalled)
'78 CB750F "The Skunk"   '74 CB550 "Blackie"    '78 Honda Hobbit

SUPERTUNE

55 ft-lbs on the crank gear nut using a penny in the gears... use a cheap ebay EBC clutch hub holder for the inner hub at 62 ft-lbs.

EBC - CT008 - Clutch Removal Tool


https://www.ebay.com/itm/EBC-CT008-Clutch-Removal-Tool/311374041157?epid=171213820&hash=item487f56d045:g:ThYAAOSwrcxbgsqr

Chuck
RD machine work, boring, porting, cranks and engine building.


Chuck 'SUPERTUNE' Quenzler III
Team Scream Racing LLC
1920 Sherwood St. STE A
Clearwater, FL. 33765
cqsupertune@tampabay.rr.com

suey1958


quocle603

#6
The good old penny trick  :twocents:

I know a lot of banshee guys do it but they ditch the washer/slim because they tend to get deformed or break and put some medium loctite. If your washer is fine, then just reuse it. If it's broken then get a new one or do the suggested
Do not underestimate the power of a two-stroke.

1975 Yamaha RD350 (modified), 1973 Yamaha RD350 (stock), 1971 Suzuki T500, 1981 Yamaha XS650 HS2, 1982 Honda MB5, 1980 Puch Maxi, 1979 Puch Magnum, 1993 Tomos Bullet, 2003 Malaguti Firefox F15 LC

Greaser Greg

After using the tool, my old method with the rope seemed ridiculous. :twocents:  worth every cent of the price.
Every day above ground is a good one.
'71 R5B "Rusty"  '71 R5B "Decaf"   '99 KZ 250
'97 XL1200S "The Vibrator"   '08 XL1200N  "Greenie" (totalled)
'78 CB750F "The Skunk"   '74 CB550 "Blackie"    '78 Honda Hobbit

quocle603

Do not underestimate the power of a two-stroke.

1975 Yamaha RD350 (modified), 1973 Yamaha RD350 (stock), 1971 Suzuki T500, 1981 Yamaha XS650 HS2, 1982 Honda MB5, 1980 Puch Maxi, 1979 Puch Magnum, 1993 Tomos Bullet, 2003 Malaguti Firefox F15 LC

Greaser Greg

Well i guess i put the washer on backwards because the nut came loose!  almost bored all the way through the cover :bang:
When using the washer, it goes on with the higher part, the middle, out, correct?
Every day above ground is a good one.
'71 R5B "Rusty"  '71 R5B "Decaf"   '99 KZ 250
'97 XL1200S "The Vibrator"   '08 XL1200N  "Greenie" (totalled)
'78 CB750F "The Skunk"   '74 CB550 "Blackie"    '78 Honda Hobbit

Jspooner

Quote from: Greaser Greg on December 20, 2019, 03:28:46 PM
Well i guess i put the washer on backwards because the nut came loose!  almost bored all the way through the cover :bang:
When using the washer, it goes on with the higher part, the middle, out, correct?

Correct.
"Just quit brain fucking it and get it done"